Hong Kong

Most new places I travel to have the ability to tug at my heart strings and each one seems to strike a different chord making it that little bit difficult to leave each and every time. Hong Kong (which means fragrant harbour) is no exception. Coming from the tiniest of places I have a great love of big cities and although Hong Kong is not the biggest, it certainly knows how to make great use of the space it has available.

I'm at a bit at a loss as to how to describe it in words. It feels as like a jigsaw puzzle with the pieces still jumbled up in its box - everything seems a little out of place somehow and yet connected ... cheaply built concrete tower blocks cozy up next to sleek modern glass skyscrapers in the shadow of which you can expect to find anything, thrown together in a seemingly haphazard manner -  a small street lined with vegetable vendors interrupts a row of trendy gift shops (wan chai), a chic coffee place sits next to a sweaty fluorescent-lit noodle joint, stylishly dressed party goers on their way to high end roof top bars, dodge their way through hordes of stumbling drunks outside the 711 (a pretty happening spot in Lan Kwai Fong as people try to avoid the considerably high drinks prices).

Skyscrapers old and new:

At one point we even got lost in a lift for a hour ... although I'm somewhat convinced it  was a tardis - every time the doors opened they revealed a different world; a gym, a wedding banquet (chandeliers and all), shops, a tapas restaurant, a food court, a toy store/amusement arcade ... when we gave up on the lift and tried to take the stairs we stumbled across a sleeping man in wellington boots ... my cheese dreams are less surreal, but it's all part of the quirky charm of this seemingly haphazard city. 

Mong Kok is home to the ladies night market which is a seemingly endless cluster of streets lined with stalls selling pretty much anything you can imagine being sold. Apparently it's also the most densely populated area in the world and might have been for awhile as the name means prosperous/crowded corner.

Mong Kok:

On our last day after giving up hope of having the relentless fog clear,  we took the tram up to Victoria Peak. We were very lucky to coincide with a slight break in the grey weather which allowed us to get a glimpse of the stunning views.

Victoria Peak:

On the way back to Tsim Sha Tsui where we were staying,  we took the ferry as darkness set in and the sky scrapers came to life to reveal stunningly lit skyline shining through the fog. 

The ongoing grind of human history has no understanding of, or interest in, the logic of physical geography and as a result it occasionally churns out a few anomalies. Gibraltar,  my home, is one of these and Hong Kong is another. Whilst wildly different, there seem to be certain parallels across these two identities. I'm told that before Hong Kong was ceded to the British after the first opium war, there wasn't actually too much going on there. Much like Gibraltar,  it was its unique status as a colony that catalysed it's growth - as a result, the Hong Kong have an identity that is unique from that of China or the UK. Now that it has been handed back to China, (whilst retaining its unique status) political tensions are rising between the local population and China, culminating with several protests and riots which have been fuelled by the ongoing manipulation by the Chinese government of the agreed terms of the transfer of the territory.

As is often the case when visiting cities, we left with an appetite to see more and I'd return to Hong Kong in a heart beat to continue enjoying all it has to offer. Special thanks to Resham, Mathias and John (aka "Stu''s friend") for each giving us tips and a glimpse of their version of the city (including the infamous syringe jelly shot):

Sleeping:
Hotel Icon in Tsim Sha Tsui. Lovely hotel in a slightly awkward area. They provide a free shuttle service to the tube which is very helpful and taxis are so cheap that location wasn't that important anyway. There's enough going on around the area that you don't feel at all isolated.

Eating:
Soho: Little Bao (recommended by Resham) was well worth the visit - there is a queue for a reason! The salted caramel dessert was amazing (and I am not a dessert person).

Drinking:
Lan Kwai Fong: Ce La Vi has amazing views (and oddly enough a jacuzzi to dip your feet in)
We stopped for a cocktail at Paradis - It's a restaurant really but has a nice bar area and a really great vibe.
Staunton Street in Soho has tons of cool and quirky bars.